Out in the desert, about 70 kilometres from Yazd, is Iran’s most important Zoroastrian pilgrimage site – Chak Chak. A tiny cliff-side village, according to legend the rock face opened up and offered refuge to Nikbanu, the daughter of the last pre-Islamic ruler, from the encroaching Arab invaders. The temple of Chak Chak, which is the Persian for “drip drip,” contains an ever-dripping spring – said to be the mountain weeping in remembrance of Princess Nikbanu.